One of the questions we get most: "Why is my dark spot not fading like everyone else's?" Often the answer is that it is a different kind of spot. On melanin-rich skin, three types show up again and again — and each asks for a slightly different approach.
1. Post-acne marks (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation)
What they look like: flat brown or dark marks exactly where a pimple, bite, scratch or ingrown hair used to be. They often appear in clusters on the cheeks, jaw and chin.
Why they happen: inflammation tells skin to make extra pigment as it heals. The deeper or longer the inflammation, the darker and longer-lasting the mark.
What helps: stop the cycle first — hands off, no picking, calm the breakouts. Then a consistent brightening step such as vitamin C or niacinamide, daily sunscreen, and patience. Most marks fade noticeably over 8–12 weeks with a steady routine.
2. Sun spots
What they look like: small, evenly coloured spots on the areas that see the most sun — cheekbones, forehead, nose, hands and shoulders. They tend to darken in summer and soften a little in winter.
Why they happen: years of UV exposure. Melanin gives some natural protection, but not enough to stop pigment building up where sun lands every day.
What helps: sunscreen does most of the work here — SPF 30 or higher, broad spectrum, every morning, reapplied if you are outside. A brightening step helps even the look of the skin around the spots. See why SPF is a dark-spot product.
3. Melasma
What it looks like: larger, blotchy patches with soft edges, usually symmetrical — both cheeks, the upper lip, forehead or bridge of the nose.
Why it happens: a mix of hormones (pregnancy, birth control), sun and heat, and genetics. It is common in women with deeper skin tones.
What helps: melasma is stubborn and tends to come back, so it is worth seeing a dermatologist for a proper diagnosis and plan. Gentle, consistent care and strict sun and heat protection support that plan. Harsh products and bleaching creams can make it much worse — read what to avoid and why.
A quick way to tell them apart
- Was there a pimple or injury there first? Likely a post-acne mark.
- Small spots only where the sun hits? Likely sun spots.
- Large, matching patches on both sides of the face? Could be melasma — get it checked.
If you are unsure, or a spot is changing shape, growing, bleeding or itching, see a doctor. A dark spot that behaves unusually should always be looked at.
What all three have in common
- Daily sunscreen is non-negotiable.
- Gentle beats harsh — irritation darkens every kind of spot.
- Results take weeks, not days. Judge a routine after about 12 weeks.
Not sure where to start? Take the 60-second skin quiz — it matches your concern to a routine. And if you have a question about your own spots, leave it in the comments on our Sunday posts; we answer them every week.